For this project, I used (2) 18 × 72 × 3/4" laminated pine from Home Depot, at a cost of about $20 per board.
The actual thickness of the boards were ~.680". I also cut the boards into 28-30" lengths depending on what was need in the Easel workpieces.
For mounting to the wall, I used a french cleat that is mounted to part D. Here is the one I used:
Even though I had easel drill holes for the trim, I found that glue and clamps worked just fine.
While it is certainly possible to make most of the cuts with a table saw, I wanted to try making an entire piece from Easel and the X-Carve.
See the pictures to help identify the Easel workpiece / parts used in this project.
Also, some of the project pictures were cropped for the thumbnails. I’d suggest clicking on them and viewing full size if it looks like something is amiss.
Measure board thickness, find right dado cut and adjust workpiece dado widths
Measure the thickness of your selected boards. Adjust the material dimensions.
Use workpiece 5 to test dado cuts for your board thickness.
There are two dado cuts on workpiece 5, adjust each one slightly different than the other and run the carve. (see picture 1). I had to run this twice before I found the right width to use.
Once you find a dado cut that has a snug fit, note the width. (see picture 2)
Using that measurement, adjust the dado cuts on workpiece 3 and 4. (see pictures 3 and 4)
Adjust size of bridge part ‘K’ to fit in-between center dado cuts in parts M and N in workpiece 3. (See picture 5)
When you adjust the dado cut sizes, it slightly alters the position since they are now slightly smaller or larger.
Or, you could alter the dado cut X positions to match the bridge part ‘K’ width.
Use Easel to cut out workpieces 1-3. Do not cut workpiece 4 yet.
Lightly assemble parts A, B and M and N (do not glue yet).
Measure inside distance from part M to N. (see picture 6)
Adjust workpiece 4 two lower dado cuts to match the distance measured between M and N. (See pictures 7 and 8)
Cut out workpiece 4
Make a note of the measurement between M and N, it will be needed again for the next step.
Take the measurement between M and N, add 3/8" to get the dowel rod length (to include the holes minus 1/8" to be able to get them in).
Cut qty 16 1/4" dowel rods (and several extra) (Picture 9)
Note that my x-carve did not carve the dowel rod holes quite round enough, I lightly used a 1/4 drill bit to round them all out. Try not to make the holes deeper.
Glue and assemble parts A, B and M and N.
Notice that part N has the screw holes drilled for trim parts which will be closest to the wall. We will attach the trim later.
Notice that parts A and B have screw holes drilled for the bridge. These should be facing up and away from the wall. (See picture 11, you will need to click on it as the thumbnail was cropped)
(See picture 12, 13, 14)
Don’t worry about the dowel rods just yet, we will bend and insert those on a later step. You can try to assemble it all at once, but it is painfully painful.
I’m very open to ideas here that might make this step easier.
Clamp the pieces together.
Test pieces O and P to make sure the dado cuts make in step 3 are correct.
Add a bead of glue to each dado cut in piece O. (See picture 17)
Insert the assembled piece into the dado cuts on piece O, then add top shelf (part L) with trim holes facing the front. (See picture 18)
Add a bead of glue to each dado cut in piece P and attach to the rest. (See picture 19 and 20).
Clamp the pieces together and let the glue dry. (See picture 21)
This is probably the trickiest part. Put a dab of glue on each end of a dowel rod.
insert one end of a dowel rod into a hole (it will be a little crooked), then gently bend the dowel rod and slide the other end into the opposing hole.
I broke a few doing this. Any better ideas would be greatly appreciated.
See pictures 22-26, and video 1.
The trim pieces attach to shelf parts E and G.
Shelf part E, the trim attaches to the front. (See pictures 27, 28 and 29). You can attach with wood screws, or glue into place.
Shelf part G, the trim attaches to the back. (See pictures 30 and 31). Use wood screws or glue.
I opted to glue mine (didn’t have the right screws on hand, shame on me). I clamped them to the unit. See picture 32.
The top is over-sized mainly for aesthetics. You could route the front and sides with a roman bit, but I left it square.
Center the top onto the unit and mark for where it will attach. (see pictures 33-35).
Drill screw holes and attach the top. (picture 36)
I used a Kreg joiner to attach the shoulder to the sides and top. Two screws horizontal and three across the top. (See pictures 37-39)
The shoulder should be attached firmly, as I plan to use the shoulder to attach to the wall. You could also attach to the wall somehow using the side pieces (O and P).
This is where I did some final sanding to smooth out some edges. After this, I applied the color my wife picked (Woodrose water-based stain by Miniwax) using a sponge.
It was a bit interesting to stain in-between the dowel rods and around the hearts. Took some patience, and a small brush for around the hearts.
See pictures 42 and 43.
Since my wife likes the distressed and ‘character’ look, I opted not to apply a protective finish.
I attached the wall brace first (after my wife telling me where and how high to mount the floating hutch). Picture 45
Then I measured and marked the back of the floating hutch for the cleat and attached using the provided hardware. Picture 46-48