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"Struggle Stick" Easel Power Hour challenge

25 opens
7 copies
471 downloads 3 comments
Chris Raynes

Project by

Chris Raynes

General Information

Sick of plastic, un-customizable, overpriced, poor excuses for arcade controllers? Why not cut your own with the X Carve! Created for the “Easel Power Hour” Challenge, this controller shell can be cut in exactly 1 hour. You can be on your way to getting mercilessly pummeled by children in no time!

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Material Description Price
Carbide Tip Straight 2 Flute - 1/8 in Cutting x 1/8 in Shank

Carbide Tip Straight 2 Flute - 1/8 in Cutting x 1/8 in Shank

Quantity: 1, Shank Diameter: 1/8 in, Cutting Diameter: 1/8 in


Gorilla Wood Glue

Gorilla Wood Glue

Gorilla Wood Glue - 8 oz

Hard Maple

Hard Maple (×6)

6" × 12" × 1/8" Hard Maple


Soft Maple - Hardwood Type

Soft Maple - Hardwood Type (×3)

Dimensions: 6 in × 12 in - don't use, Thickness: 1/2 in - don't use

This project's Bill of Materials is not complete.

from Inventables

File Description Unit Price





Download Zip

from Inventables


Phase 1 = The Lid

15 minutes

Phase 1 = Top Lid
All instructions are in the notes. I have been building, painting, and selling arcade sticks. This project will show how I will use the X-Carve to give customers the opportunity to customize their layouts in any way they want…something not often seen in the custom fightstick world. You want 8 buttons in the shape of a smiley face, ok you got it! It also frees me to spend more time on other parts of the process. This project was created for the Easel Power Hour competition. Despite having access to 1/4 inch lumber, I had to adhere to the competition rules and use 2 sheets of 1/8 sandwiched onto one another, which is why this lid will be cut in 2 seperate parts.
Starting with a sheet of 1/8 lumber, joined together and cut to 15″ × 15″ (made to fit larger X-Carve) we cut the button holes, bottom plate, and jlf riser. In this project we will be using 30mm Seimitsu buttons (with 35mm screw ons). Aside from the 30mm buttons, I included a “start” button, also Seimitsu that is a 24mm. The JLF Riser is accurate to spec for a JLF “stick” and is to ensure there is ample bite to the screws, as well keep screws from poking through top plate. It’s not essential but helpful. Using only lumber available on the Inventables store front, the top lid will be made of 1/8. This is the top-most layer of the lid, a second will be cut and placed underneath. To prevent any warping in the future also try staggering the grain (flip every other piece), so when the lumber dries or is introduced to moisture it will stabilize better.


Phase 2 = The Lid Layer 2

13 minutes

This layer also 1/8 “Hard Maple”. This is the supporting layer for layer 1. Layer 2 should be glued to bottom of layer 1. If you decide to use thicker wood for this project, you can cut phase 1, edit phase 2 flipped horizontal (make sure they are aligned perfectly), then cut (now mirrored) phase 2 so the underside of the lid has the proper clearance for the button screws. In this version of the lid, the thinner top layer allows you to also use snap in buttons that are not made for thicker shells. This layer adds stability, as well has larger holes to accommodate for the button screws that go to underneath. This layer can be cut from acrylic, but I like the idea of all wood shell…classy like. The bottom lid is also sandwiched together with phase 1’s bottom lid. Make sure all surfaces are flush before clamping to avoid misalignment.


Phase 3 = The walls

31 minutes

Phase 3
Now onto the back, sides, and front. This piece cut from half inch Soft Maple for more stability. The back plate also has the hole cut for a Neutrik USB port to attach, as well two notches for support braces. (The Neutrik jack is a popular part that allows you to add a USB port, rather than run a wire directly to your parts.)

Assembly: Glue “SIDES” to front face of “BACK WALL”, making sure to keep them flush to sides of back panel. use top panel to ensure proper fit. I suggest at this point to insert the front brace and back support braces, making sure the front face is also flush to the front of “SIDES”. You now have a topless, bottomless box. If everything is good up to this point, all pieces should sit clean with one another. Now with both layers of “TOP LID” together making sure layer 1 is top-most layer, slide “TOP LID” into the “SIDES” grooves. You can either glue it in, or using the back braces as mounts for small thumbscrews through both layers of “TOP LID” so the top can be removed in the future and swapped for others. I didn’t include holes in the top for a clean surface, but measuring from the outside edge to the center of the back braces, you should be able to figure out where the thumbscrews should go. Finally the bottom plate. Same as top, glue both layers together, let dry and…If you want quick and dirty, glue it to the bottom and work on wiring through the hole (I don’t recommend this). I suggest instead adding a jewelry box hing and latch for access (No Glue). If using a MCthulhu arcade board, the inner brace, as well maybe the back plate would be a good spot. For other boards ymmv.

This project was made using only lumber found on Inventables. It also lacks detail carving and other accommodations for sake of adhering to the 2018 “Easel Power Hour” challenge, 1 hour time limit. That’s right this should all carve in one hour. I hope to also enter in an alternate lid with detail carving for the competition, so keep an eye out for that. Enjoy the struggle stick. Check me out at artistcraynes @ Instagram.

Stanley Garnett
How to open this or atleast download it?
Stanley Garnett
Teresa Jo Parsons
I second Stanley, this thing is amazing!
Teresa Jo Parsons
Mike Phillips
It isn't set to public
Mike Phillips